Maine Wilderness Canoe Vacations with Gil Gilpatrick

The mole waggled his toes from sheer happiness, spread his chest with a sigh of full contentment, and leaned back blissfully into the soft cushions. "What a day I'm having!" he said, "Let us start at once!"

Kenneth Grahame, The Wind In The Willows


The Region: Maine's northwestern wilderness is laced with rivers, lakes and streams. Centuries ago Wabnaki Indians used these waterways to move about in their seasonal travels, moving over hundreds of miles during the course of a year -- almost all by water! No wonder so many of our lakes and rivers still bear Indian names. Allagaskwegamook -- Bark Cabin Lake -- is the Wabnaki name for Churchill Lake. From this a river, in fact a whole region, got its name -- Allagash!

The beauty of falling water
Watching and listening to Allagash Falls is an awesome experience. The trail around the falls (about 1/4 mile) is the only real portage on the entire trip.

The Allagash:

The Allagash is the most famous river in the eastern United States, and the fame is justified. The entire waterway from Telos Lake to East Twin Brook is just under 100 miles and involves travel on several lakes, through connecting thoroughfares, and small ponds, and the river itself. There are no long portages -- only a few lifts around dams and one of about 1/4 mile around beautiful Allagash Falls.

The rapids on the river are all Class I and II except Chase Rapids which is Class III. We will hire a portage service to haul our gear around Chase Rapids so the run can be made with empty canoes. Persons not wishing to make the run can ride around in the portage truck.

The entire area is a museum of history, natural and cultural. There are numerous wildlife sightings -- moose, deer, beaver, ducks, and many water and land birds. Bald eagle sightings, though not guaranteed, are not uncommon either. Lumbering has always been an important part of Maine's economy and relics of some interesting old-time operations are there to be seen. There are the remains of the old Eagle Lake And West Branch Railroad: the two giant oil burning locomotives just sitting there rusting away in the woods, miles from connecting tracks. The Tramway is in the same area, another scheme to move wood. The operation and reason for these, and other wood moving schemes will be explained in the book, Allagash..

The St. John:

This river provides a beautiful trip if the water conditions are right. Since there are no large lakes in its headwaters (as with the Allagash), the St. John's water level rises and falls quite fast. For this reason any scheduled St. John trip (except late May, early June) must have an alternate trip planned, probably a variation of the regular Allagash trip. The river is described as: "A mile wide and an inch deep," and the description is apt for most of the summer months.


From another age
The sight of these two giant oil burning locomotives in the middle of Maine's wilderness is a source of wonder. The book, Allagash will explain what they did and how they got there.


The trip from Baker Lake to Allagash Village is about 100 miles. It is all river with good current and mostly Class I and II rapids with the exception of Big Black Rapids and Big Rapids which are Class III. There are no portages.


West Branch of the Penobscot:

If you are not sure about this canoeing thing and want to try it out for three to five days, this is just the trip for you. I consider the West Branch to be one of Maine's best rivers for the beginner. It has Class I and II water on the river, allowing you to get the "feel" of moving water, but the rapids are not difficult and are easily negotiated. The trip ends on the beautiful Chesuncook Lake, Maine's third largest. Since the lake is about 20 miles long, we often motor the length of it for trips of shorter duration.

Other Possibilities:

There are other Maine rivers that provide some wonderful canoeing possibilities. I will be glad to discuss them with you to best meet your needs for a great canoeing experience. Also, we may opt to paddle only part of the Allagash if a shorter time is necessary or desired. And, there is the possibility of using the outboard motor in lakes and quiet sections of rivers in order to shorten the time needed and to ease some aching shoulders.


Link Options:

Gil's Home Page
Meet your guide and get the details of the trips
Learn how to plan your trip
Some Outdoor Books by Gil


Maine Resource Guide Link Options:

Maine's Outdoor-Sporting Guide
Interactive Travel Center
Maine Resource Guide Home Page